Battery energy added (kWh) × your electricity tariff ($/kWh) × an allowance for charging losses.
Most EV drivers do not charge from empty to full every night. They plug in after normal use and replace only the energy consumed. The examples below use a 10–100% session, an illustrative electricity tariff of $0.30/kWh and a 10% allowance for losses between the meter and battery.
What a home charge can cost
| Usable example | Energy added to battery | Energy billed with 10% loss | Cost at $0.30/kWh |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40 kWh battery, 10–100% | 36 kWh | 39.6 kWh | $11.88 |
| 60 kWh battery, 10–100% | 54 kWh | 59.4 kWh | $17.82 |
| 80 kWh battery, 10–100% | 72 kWh | 79.2 kWh | $23.76 |
These are worked examples, not a national average. Substitute your actual tariff, battery size and charging loss. Solar, controlled-load and time-of-use plans can change the result significantly.
How long does home charging take?
Start with the energy you need to add, then divide it by the effective charging power. For a 60 kWh battery going from 10% to 100%, the battery needs about 54 kWh before losses.
| Charging setup | Ideal calculation | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| 2.3 kW portable charger | About 23.5 hours | Useful for low daily kilometres; use a suitable, checked circuit |
| 7 kW single-phase wallbox | About 7.7 hours | A common overnight home-charging setup |
| 11 kW three-phase wallbox | About 4.9 hours | The car and property must both support 11 kW AC |
Real sessions take longer because charging power and efficiency are not perfectly constant. Have permanent charging equipment installed by a licensed electrician and ask them to assess the switchboard, circuit protection, cable run and available supply.
Why DC fast-charging claims use 10–80%
Manufacturers usually quote 10–80% because the car can accept high power through the middle of the battery’s state-of-charge. Charging normally slows as the battery fills, especially above 80%, to manage heat and protect the pack. The maximum DC number is a peak, not a speed the car holds for the whole session.
For road trips, compare the claimed 10–80% time and the charging curve—not only the headline kilowatt figure. Weather, battery temperature, charger capability and whether another vehicle shares the charger can all affect the stop.
How to compare EV battery warranties
Time and distance: check both the years and kilometre cap; coverage ends when either limit is reached.
Capacity guarantee: look for a stated minimum battery state-of-health, not only cover for total failure.
Exclusions: commercial use, misuse, modifications, flood damage and missed maintenance may matter.
Transferability: confirm that the remaining battery warranty follows the car to its next owner.
Separate warranties: the high-voltage battery, vehicle and 12-volt battery may have different terms.
For example, BYD Australia currently summarises its Atto 1 coverage as six years/150,000 km for the vehicle and eight years/160,000 km for the traction battery. Treat that as one manufacturer example, not an industry-wide rule, and read the full warranty document.
A sensible everyday charging routine
- Use scheduled or off-peak home charging when it suits your electricity plan.
- Follow the charging-limit and full-charge guidance in your vehicle manual; battery chemistries differ.
- Precondition the battery before a DC stop when the vehicle supports it.
- Keep a buffer for weather, hills, towing and high-speed travel rather than planning around the claimed maximum range.
- Compare insurance, tyres and servicing as well as electricity; energy is only one ownership cost.
Sources and methodology
EV Matchup prioritises Australian manufacturer pages and government resources. Editorial recommendations are our own.